DeLonghi ECP & Stilosa

Contents

• Foreword
• Shopping List
• Printed Parts
• Before You Begin
• Diagram — Wiring
• Flashing the Hardware
• Prepare the Machine
• Create a Wire Port
• Wire the Pump
• Prepare the Water Line
• Re-seat the Frame
• Wire the Boiler
• Wire the Screen
• Attach the Thermocouple
• Wire the Solid State Relay (SSR)
• Diagram — PCB Wiring Pinout
• Connect the Components
• Wiring the Grounded Power Cord
• 🇪🇺 European Version Only Replacing the Stock Power Switch (i.e. Disabling ECO Mode)
• Power-On Test and First Boot
• Final Setup and Testing
• Troubleshooting
• Congratulations!
• Acknowledgements

Foreword

If you see any errors or have any suggestions on making purchasing cheaper or easier for people, please join us in the GaggiMate Discord channel.

About This Guide

Scope of Work

This is a major modification requiring a full rewire.

• Rewiring: You will remove most existing wiring and create a new harness to connect to the GaggiMate PCB.
• Controls: The stock rotary knob will be removed. The machine will be controlled entirely through the GaggiMate interface.
• Power: You will install a new 3-prong plug and a 4-pin on/off switch (for the EU model).
• Features: This process disables the stock “Eco Mode” found on EU models.

While not a “simple” mod, it is manageable if you are comfortable with basic hand tools and confident following detailed instructions. This guide assumes you have purchased the specific items listed below and is not suitable for a “LEGO” style build.

A Note on the Stilosa

This guide is compatible with the Stilosa. The only significant difference is the front panel, which may require a specific screen housing print (linked in the Printed Parts section). All images and references below feature the ECP, but the modification is identical.

But Why?!

DeLonghi makes several popular, affordable, and surprisingly capable semi-automatic espresso machines. You can often find a well-maintained pre-owned model on Facebook Marketplace or elsewhere for a great price. I paid just $50 for mine. Even in stock form, the ECP and Stilosa can produce excellent espresso. Their stainless-steel grouphead and sturdy internals make them very capable, especially when paired with a bottomless portafilter and a quality grinder.

However, if the idea of installing a Ferrari engine inside a Toyota chassis sounds exciting, this modification is for you. After installing the GaggiMate, these little sleepers can rival the performance and features of $1,000-plus single-boiler espresso machines for a fraction of the cost.

You Can Do This!

Before I started this modification, I had never cut, crimped, or spliced a wire in my life. Despite that, I successfully installed the GaggiMate on my DeLonghi ECP. If I can do it, you can do it too.

Take your time, follow each step carefully, and you will be just fine. Make sure to read through the entire guide at least once before you start working on the machine. This will help you understand the overall process and prepare you for what’s ahead.

Disclaimer

Working with high-voltage electricity carries a risk of serious injury, electrocution, or fire. The modifications described in this guide involve opening your machine and altering its internal wiring, which operates at mains voltage.

By proceeding with this project, you acknowledge and agree to the following:

• Assumption of Risk: You perform these modifications at your own risk. The author of this guide assumes no liability for any damage to your equipment, property, or injury to yourself or others.
• Full Responsibility: You take full responsibility for the safety and functionality of your machine.
• Safety First: Always ensure the machine is completely unplugged from the wall outlet before removing the housing or touching any internal components.
• Technical Competence: Do not attempt these modifications if you are not comfortable working with electrical circuits or interpreting wiring diagrams.

If you are unsure about any step, consult a qualified electrician or professional technician.

Shopping List

Before buying anything, please read the guide fully. To get the GaggiMate to work with the DeLonghi ECP series, you must buy the components in this list exactly as specified. The shopping list includes items that make the job easier, but experienced tinkerers should analyze the list and determine what they actually need to buy.

1. GaggiMate Pro PCB
2. A compatible ESP-32-S3 screen ⚠️ Buy only one. 2.1 inch Waveshare ESP32-S3 Round Touch Screen ℹ️ Buy the 2.1 inch screen if you’re modding the ECP. There are no 2.8 inch prints right now. or 🔀 Alternative 2.8 inch Waveshare ESP32-S3 Round Touch Screen ℹ️ Buy the 2.8 inch screen if you’re modding the Stilosa to use Stuart’s print.
3. Solid State Relay DC to AC 40-DA

1. K-Type 6mm 0.5m Ungrounded Thermocouple ℹ️ If you’re in the EU, you can also source your thermocouples from this shop.
2. 22 AWG silicone wires
3. 18 AWG silicone wires
4. 6.3mm and 4.8mm spade connectors ℹ️ If you buy the crimping tool linked in the Tools & Consumables section, you do not need to buy these connectors separately.
5. Fork connectors, Color: SV1.25-5s-50PCS ℹ️ If you buy the crimping tool linked in the Tools & Consumables section, you do not need to buy these. You may use the included ring connectors for the SSR instead.
6. JST PH 2.0 Connectors or 🔀 Alternative 30cm PH2.0 JST Connector 2P and 30cm PH2.0 JST Connector 3P ℹ️ If you do not want to experience the frustration of crimping tiny JST connectors, buy these. You will splice the unconnected ends of these to their corresponding wires on the screen and SSR. You must buy both. Choose 30cm length for both to give you enough wire.
7. Pressure Transducer, Color: 0-1.6Mpa
8. Silicone gasket, Size: 1/4 inch
9. PTFE Tube, Color: 2 x 4mm White
10. Pressure T-Fitting, Color: PE, Specification: 4mm 5/32 inch
11. 90° Pressure Fitting, Color: 4-02, Specification: PLF
12. 🇪🇺 European Version 21mm x 15mm DPST On/Off Rocker Switch, Color: 4Pin Black — Replace the stock rocker switch with a 21mm x 15mm 4-pin DPST Black On/Off switch. This modification is required to bypass the factory ECO mode and ensure the machine remains powered for consistent thermal stability.
13. 🇺🇸 American Version 3-Prong Power Cord — Upgrades the stock 2-prong cord to a grounded connection. Required given the extent of the modifications.
14. 🇺🇸 American Version 💡 Optional Grounded Outlet Adapter with On/Off Switch — This modification removes the machine’s power knob. Without it, you’d need to unplug the machine to cut power entirely. With it, you get a manual power switch while still letting GaggiMate manage the heater schedule.
15. 💡 Optional Rancilio-style steam wand — Highly recommended upgrade. The stock Pannarello wand lacks precision; this one includes a one-hole and three-hole tip.

Tools & Consumables

1. Razor / PTFE cutter — Required for clean, straight cuts on water line tubes without crushing them. Or print your own!
2. Crimping tool — Crimps uninsulated connectors only. If you buy this one, you do not need to buy the separate connectors in the shopping list.
3. 💡 Optional Mini-micro open barrel crimping tool — Only needed if you are crimping your own JST PH connectors. Not needed if you bought the pre-crimped JST wires.
4. Heat-shrink butt connectors — You need at least 6 compatible with AWG 22 and 1 for AWG 18.
5. WAGO connectors — Much easier than wire nuts or terminal blocks. You need at least one 2-slot, one 3-slot, and one 5-slot connector.
6. Tube clips — To secure water lines. You need at least 4. ℹ️ 3D-printable clips are also available, download here.
7. Multimeter — Highly recommended for testing connections for continuity.
8. Wire-cutter & wire-stripper
9. Phillips screwdriver
10. Torx screwdriver — Only needed if your bottom panel is attached with Torx screws. Check before buying.
11. Spring Clips — Only needed if your steam hose is clamped with single-use clamps. You need at least 2.
12. Thermal paste — Required for good thermal contact with the thermocouple.
13. Pliers
14. 💡 Optional Zip-ties or other cable management solutions
15. 💡 Optional Labels
16. 💡 Optional Double-sided tape

Printed Parts

We recommend printing all parts using PETG or ABS for durability and heat resistance. PETG is preferred. It has a higher heat tolerance than ABS, comes in a wider variety of colors, and is easier to print. There’s no reason you can’t glam up your machine with a bright color while you’re at it!

Screen Prints

DeLonghi ECP

• 2.1” Screen
  • TorxFighter designed the front panel replacement shown at the start of this guide. It’s not free, but it completely transforms the look of the machine by replacing the entire front panel and seamlessly integrating the screen. The author of this guide uses this print and recommends it. Find it here.
  • Alternatively, buy the housing for a 2.1” screen or download the model and print it yourself.
• 2.8” Screen
  • Prowler has designed a screen housing for the 2.8” WaveShare screen that mounts on the front panel. Find the model here.

DeLonghi Stilosa

• 2.8” Screen
  • Stuart has designed a screen housing for the 2.8” WaveShare screen that mounts on the front panel. Find the model here.

PCB Prints

• TorxFighter, creator of the front panel replacement print, has also released a PCB housing that mounts on the back of the machine and holds both the PCB and SSR.
• ph has designed and shared another version that also fits both the SSR and PCB, mounted on the back of the machine.
• You can also buy a pre-printed GaggiMate Pro PCB housing or download the model and print it yourself. Note that this housing only holds the PCB. You’ll need a separate solution for the SSR.

Before You Begin

Diagram — Wiring

Please ensure you reference the appropriate wiring diagram below as your primary roadmap for this entire step. Do not skip this check, as it dictates your next sequence of operations. It might look intimidating, but take your time; we will break down each connection precisely. The diagram is your essential blueprint.

Diagram A — No Power Switch (e.g. American Models)

Diagram B — Power Switch (e.g. European Models)

Flashing the Hardware

Flash both the PCB and screen before installing them. It’s much easier to do outside the machine. Follow the instructions at docs.gaggimate.eu/docs/flashing.

1. PCB flashed.
2. Screen flashed.

Prepare the Machine

Remove the Frame — Slowly and carefully lift the frame out, disconnecting any remaining wires to the boiler or pump before fully removing it. Set it aside in an accessible spot; you’ll be doing most of the rewiring on it. ▶️ This video guide is an excellent reference for the disassembly process, specifically showing how to access the internal components and remove the frame for a deep overhaul. 💡 Optional Remove the Pannarello Steam Wand — If you plan to install a Rancilio-style wand (recommended), now is the time. ▶️ This video guide is an excellent walkthrough. The abridged process is as follows:

1. Note the orientation of the plastic ring clip, lift it off, then remove the Pannarello wand cover.
2. Push the Pannarello wand up from the bottom and through the machine.
3. Remove the metal “C” clip and pull the plastic ball joint off the wand.
4. Slide the silicone grip off your Rancilio wand if pre-installed, then slide the ball joint onto the top. Use a little water or lubricant if needed.
5. Slide the silicone grip down to the bend and then feed the Rancilio wand through the machine from the top until the ball joint seats in its original position.
6. Secure the ball joint with the plastic ring clip.

Create a Wire Port

You will need to drill a hole in the back panel to route wires from inside the machine to the PCB. Choose a location that is easily accessible when fully assembled and does not interfere with any other components. Drill the hole large enough to fit at least a 13 mm (inner-dimension) grommet. This keeps the opening tidy and protects the wires from sharp edges.

Wire the Pump

The pump is not polarized. It does not matter which wire connects to which terminal. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Connect the Blue Pump Wire

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the 3-prong plug at the bottom of the machine, down through the large hole below the pump.
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Strip at least 5 mm from one end, then crimp a 6.3mm female spade connector onto it. Attach this end to either male spade connector on the pump.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.

Connect the Green Pump Wire

1. Cut a green 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the pump port on the PCB (this will be mounted outside the machine on the rear panel) from the pump, outside through the wire port.
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Strip at least 5 mm from one end, then crimp a 6.3mm female spade connector onto it. Attach this end to the unconnected male spade on the pump.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.

Prepare the Water Line

Re-seat the Frame

Wire the Boiler

The boiler is not polarized. Note how the fuse is secured to the boiler via the metal clip. When you reconnect the fused wire, secure it the same way to ensure it stays in place and maintains good contact with the boiler surface. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Connect the Red Fused Boiler Wire

1. Take the red fused wire with the fuse you saved earlier. If it’s not long enough to reach your SSR (this will be mounted outside the machine on the rear panel), splice an additional length of red 18 AWG wire using a heat-shrink butt connector.
2. Attach the end with the existing plastic cap to either pin on the boiler and secure the fuse under the metal clip.
3. Feed the unconnected end of the red fused boiler wire out of the machine through the wire port you created on the back. It will be connected to the SSR later. Secure it with tape for now.

Connect the Blue Boiler Wire

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the 3-prong plug from the boiler, down through the large hole beneath the pump.
2. Slide an insulation sleeve onto the wire, strip at least 5mm from one end, and crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto it.
3. Attach this end to the unconnected pin on the boiler.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.
5. Feed the unconnected end of the blue boiler wire down through the hole beneath the pump. It will be connected to the plug later. Secure it with tape for now.

Wire the Screen

This section explains how to prepare a WaveShare screen for connection to the PCB. If you purchased a LilyGo screen, the process will be similar, but wiring may differ. Refer to the documentation that came with your screen for specifics. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Prepare the 2-Pin Female PH 2.0 Connector

Prepare the 4-Pin Female SH 1.0 Connector

1. Using a narrow-tip tweezer, lift the retention tabs (depicted above) on the yellow wire and pull it out. Repeat for the orange wire.
2. Cut the black rectangular connectors off the red and black wires.
3. Strip at least 10 mm from each wire’s exposed end.

Prepare the 22 AWG Wires

1. Cut one red 22 AWG and one black 22 AWG wire long enough to reach the 2-pin screen port on the PCB from the front panel, outside through the wire port. Both wires should be identical in length.
2. Strip at least 10 mm from both ends of each wire.

Prepare the Screen Connection

1. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the red 22 AWG wire.
2. Bring its stripped end to the stripped end of the SH1.0 connector’s red wire and twist them firmly together. ▶️ This short video is an excellent reference.
3. Slide the heat-shrink butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section is centered over the twisted wires before heating.
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink both insulated ends of the connector.
5. Heat the middle solder section until it melts and the insulation shrinks tight.
6. Repeat the steps above for the black 22 AWG wire and the SH1.0 connector’s black wire.

Prepare the PCB Connection

1. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the other end of the red 22 AWG wire.
2. Bring its stripped end to the stripped end of the PH 2.0 connector’s red wire and twist them firmly together.
3. Slide the butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section is centered over the twisted wires before heating.
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink both insulated ends of the connector.
5. Heat the middle solder section until it melts and the insulation shrinks tight.
6. Repeat the steps above for the black 22 AWG wire and the PH 2.0 connector’s black wire.

Attach the Thermocouple

Wire the Solid State Relay (SSR)

Attach the SSR Output-to-Plug Wire

1. Strip at least 5 mm from one end of the red wire.
2. On this end, crimp a ring connector.
3. Attach the wire to either terminal on the OUTPUT side of the SSR.
4. Place the wire’s ring connector under a screw plate and reinstall the Phillips screw.
5. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the other end of this wire.
6. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in a 3-slot WAGO connector.
7. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Prepare the 3-Pin Female PH 2.0 Connector

1. Using a narrow-tip tweezer, gently lift the retention tabs (depicted above) on the 3-pin connector and remove all three wires.
2. Insert the red wire into the middle slot and the black into the right slot.
3. Gently tug both to confirm they are securely seated. ⚠️ Correct placement in the connector is critical for proper SSR control and PCB operation.

Prepare the Control Wire Ends on the SSR Side

1. Crimp a ring connector onto the 3-pin connector’s red wire.
2. Crimp a ring connector onto the 3-pin connector’s black wire.

Diagram — PCB Wiring Pinout

Refer to the wiring pinout diagram below as we begin connecting the remaining wires to the PCB. Following the pinout carefully is crucial to ensure proper functionality and avoid damage to components.

Connect the Components

Connect the Boiler to the SSR — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the other end of the red fused wire that is connected to the boiler.
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this end of the wire.
3. Crimp an M5 ring connector onto the stripped end.
4. Attach this wire to the free terminal on the OUTPUT side of the SSR.
5. Place this wire’s ring connector under a screw plate and reinstall the Phillips screw.

Connect the Screen to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the 2-pin PH 2.0 connector into the correct slot on the PCB . It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.
2. Insert the 4-pin SH 1.0 connector into the 4-pin slot on your WaveShare screen. It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.

Connect the Solid State Relay (SSR) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the 3-pin connector from the SSR into the correct slot on the PCB . It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.
2. Ensure that the wire positions match the PCB Pinout diagram exactly.

Connect the Pressure Transducer (PT) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the red pressure transducer wire into the +5V slot.
2. Insert the green pressure transducer wire into the Analog In slot.
3. Insert the black pressure transducer wire into the Ground slot. ℹ️ If you have an older board with 3-slots for the PT, the black wire goes into the empty slot.
4. Give the wires a gentle pull to verify that all are secured within their respective slots.

Connect the Thermocouple (TC) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. If your thermocouple has fork connectors, gently pull them off, then strip at least 20 mm of insulation.
2. Fold the exposed wire back on itself before gently twisting them. This makes them thick enough for the two ports to hold securely.
3. Insert the red thermocouple wire into the T+ slot .
4. Insert the blue thermocouple wire into the T- slot .
5. Give the wires a gentle pull to verify that they are secure within their respective slots.

Connect the Green Pump Wire — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the uncrimped end of the green wire connected to the pump.
2. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into the pump slot on the PCB .
3. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Blue Neutral Wire — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the uncrimped end of the blue neutral wire.
2. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into the neutral slot on the PCB .
3. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Red Line Wire — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire that can comfortably reach to the PCB from the 3-slot WAGO connector (attached to the SSR).
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one end of a red 18 AWG.
3. Twist the exposed wire to prevent fraying, then insert it into the line slot on the PCB .
4. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the other end of this wire.
5. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot on the same 3-slot WAGO connector.
6. Give the PCB wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
7. Give the WAGO wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Wiring the Grounded Power Cord

Even though the American version is not grounded by default, the grounding-point is there for us to use. While the DeLonghi America engineers chose not to ground the boiler, they also didn’t expect dramatic modification of their machine. The GaggiMate team strongly recommends that you ground your boiler.

On the 3-prong power cord linked in the shopping list, identify the following wires:

• Line is black . For the EU machine, it is brown .
• Neutral is white . For the EU machine, it is black .
• Ground is teal . For the EU machine, it is green and yellow .

Connect the SSR to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Locate the Line wire on the 3-prong plug .
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the Line wire.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into the last free slot in the 3-slot WAGO connector.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Pump to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Locate the Neutral wire on the 3-prong plug .
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the Neutral wire.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into a free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.
5. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you routed to the plug from the pump, through the large hole.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of this blue wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
8. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
9. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you attached to the boiler and then routed to the plug, from the large hole.
10. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of this wire.
11. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
12. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Connect the Pump to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire that can comfortably reach to the PCB, from the 5-slot WAGO connector, up through the large hole and outside the machine through the wire port.
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one unconnected end of this wire.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector. At this point, you will have 4 wires connected and 1 remaining empty slot. This is correct.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
5. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you routed to the PCB from the 5-slot WAGO connector.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one unconnected end of this wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into the pump slot of the PCB.
8. Give the PCB wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Connect the Ground Wire to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a green 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the boiler’s grounding point from the plug, up through the large hole beneath the pump.

1. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the end of the ground wire that will be connected to the ground wire on the 3-prong plug .
2. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the wire.
3. Bring the stripped end of the ground wire to the already stripped Ground wire on the 3-prong plug .
4. Twist the wires together to ensure a firm connection.
5. Slide the heat-shrink butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section of the butt connector is positioned directly over the twisted wires.
6. Use a heat source (e.g., a heat gun or lighter) to shrink the left and right insulated ends of the heat-shrink butt connector.
7. Then heat the middle solder section to melt it. This creates a tight, secure splice.

Connect the Boiler Side of the Ground Wire — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the other end of the ground wire that will connect to the boiler’s grounding point .
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Crimp an M5 ring connector onto the stripped end.
4. Attach this connector to the grounding point on the boiler using an M4 screw . Ensure it is securely fastened.

🇪🇺 European Version Only Replacing the Stock Power Switch (i.e. Disabling ECO Mode)

Disconnect and Remove the Stock Power Switch ▶️ This video guide is an excellent reference.

1. Locate the stock power switch on your European-model machine and disconnect the two wires attached to it.
2. After disconnecting, push the power switch out and remove it from the machine.

Replace the Power Switch

1. Push in the power switch you purchased from the shopping list above into the empty hole. This hole will accept a 21mm x 15mm rectangular switch.

Connect the Plug to the Power Switch — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire long enough to reach a pin on the power switch from the line wire on the plug.
2. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to the power switch.
3. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
4. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
5. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch.

Connect the Power Switch to the SSR — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the OUTPUT side of the SSR from the switch, up through the large hole beneath the pump, and outside through the wire port.
2. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to a pin on the power switch.
3. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
4. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
5. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to the OUTPUT side of the SSR .
6. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
7. Crimp a 6.3mm ring connector onto this end of the wire.
8. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch.

Power-On Test and First Boot

With everything connected, plug in your machine and turn it on. If everything is wired correctly, you should observe the following:

1. The LED lights on your machine illuminate.
2. The LED indicators on the underside of the PCB light up.
3. Your screen powers on and begins its first boot sequence.

If any of these three things do not occur, there is likely a wiring issue. Unplug your machine, review the guide carefully, and retrace your connections to locate and correct the error.

Assuming all three systems power on correctly, visit the GaggiMate website and follow the instructions in the First Start documentation. While there, also review the Configuration, Touch Screen Usage documents to familiarize yourself with the GaggiMate software and its features. Lastly, if you experience any issues with the software, please first check the Troubleshooting section. If your issue is not addressed there, please join us in Discord. We’d be happy to try to help you.

Final Setup and Testing

• Use GaggiMate’s software Auto-Tune feature in the PID Autotune page to generate PID values specific to your machine. This ensures the software can control temperature effectively and accurately.
• For DeLonghi ECP users, it is recommended to disable Steam Assist in the Settings page by setting its value to 0.
• Before reassembling your machine completely, test pulling a shot using the GaggiMate interface. Confirm that there are no leaks and that everything powers and functions as expected.
• If everything looks good, you’re ready to reassemble your machine.
• Before final reassembly, unplug your machine and take some time to organize your internal wiring using your solution of choice. Verify that no wires are resting directly on the boiler surface where heat could cause damage to them over time. The only wire that may rest on the boiler surface is the fuse-protected heater wire.

Troubleshooting

The list below contains common issues you might encounter. If your problem is not listed here, please join us in Discord. We’d be happy to try to help you.

1. After starting my machine, I keep seeing a “Temperature error, please restart” message on my screen! What should I do?

   • First, use your multimeter and test the thermocouple while in continuity mode to make certain it is ungrounded by touching one probe to the thermocouple end, and the other probe to one of two terminal wires. If the multimeter beeps, your thermocouple is grounded. Return it and purchase an ungrounded thermocouple. If your thermocouple is ungrounded (i.e. no beep), try a different outlet. The PID controller does not like a noisy signal. If you’re plugged into an outlet that is weak or noisy (e.g. an extension outlet with lots of USB ports, etc.), your PID may not operate correctly.

2. I moved it to a different outlet, but I still have the same error. What should I do?

   • Your thermocouple wires may not be making a tight connection inside their PCB slots. These wires are thin. If you’re using the naked wires, make sure you’ve folded them over and twisted them as instructed to give the slot clamps something to bite onto. If that still doesn’t work, consider wrapping the terminal wires in ferrite beads or adding an EMI filter to the power line to reduce electrical noise.

3. My coffee tastes underextracted or sour. What’s wrong?

   • Nothing is wrong, per se. Even the highest-end machines have a temperature difference from where the thermocouple takes a measurement and the actual grouphead. The GaggiMate software allows you to compensate for this by adjusting the “Temperature Offset” value in the settings. You can increase this value to raise the target temperature that the PID controller is trying to reach, which will help ensure that the grouphead reaches your desired temperature for espresso extraction. Use a probe to measure the actual temperature at the grouphead and adjust the offset accordingly until you achieve the desired taste. Don’t be alarmed if you measure an offset of 10–20 degrees Celsius between the thermocouple reading and the actual grouphead temperature. This is normal for machines like the DeLonghi ECP that do not have a thermocouple located directly at the grouphead.

4. I have my temperature offset dialed-in, but my coffee still tastes underextracted or sour. What else could be wrong?

   • According to odor4fun, the mushroom valve inside the DeLonghi machines requires at least 4-bars of pressure to hold open. If your pump is not generating enough pressure to extract properly, the mushroom valve may not be opening fully. This can lead to underextraction. If your shots still don’t taste correct after dialing in the temperature offset, increase the pressure values in all phases of your preferred profile(s) by plus 4. This should help ensure the mushroom valve is opening fully and allow for proper extraction.

   For more troubleshooting tips, please check the GaggiMate Troubleshooting Documentation. The ones mentioned above are commonly observed in DeLonghi ECP machines, but the troubleshooting documentation contains resolutions for a wide variety of issues.

Congratulations!

Welcome to the world of turbocharged espresso! Now you can extract café-quality shots from a compact, affordable machine that rivals the big names at a fraction of the cost.

Acknowledgements

• Flavius for successfully being the first (as far as we know) to install GaggiMate on a DeLonghi ECP, answering a ton of questions, and helping identify the required components.
• mdwasp for also providing a lot of information, and for being the creator of the GaggiMate project.
• TorxFighter for doing a lot of tinkering and sharing awesome 3D-prints specific to our beloved little DeLonghis.
• Abunchahicks for wiring assistance and general knowledge and helpfulness.
• Stuart for technical support and clever mounting ideas (e.g. a DIN rail).
• Prowler for a 2.8” screen print.
• odor4fun for sharing his knowledge about the mushroom valve and how to optimize pressure values for better extraction.
• The GaggiMate team for their incredible work and contributions.