DeLonghi ECP & Stilosa

GaggiMate installed on a DeLonghi ECP, in black

Image credit: mdwasp

GaggiMate installed on a DeLonghi ECP, in white

Image credit: julia

Contents

• Foreword
• Disclaimer
• Shopping List
• Printed Parts
• Before You Begin
• Flashing the Hardware
• Diagram — Wiring
• Prepare the Machine
• Pre-Wire Planning & Layout
• Wire the Pump
• Prepare the Water Line
• Re-seat the Frame
• Wire the Boiler
• Wire the Screen
• Attach the Thermocouple
• Wire the Solid State Relay (SSR)
• Diagram — PCB Wiring Pinout
• Connect the Components
• Wiring the Grounded Power Cord
• 🇪🇺 European Version Only Disabling ECO Mode
• Power-On Test and First Boot
• Final Setup and Testing
• Troubleshooting
• Congratulations!
• Acknowledgements

Foreword

If you see any errors or have any suggestions on making purchasing cheaper or easier for people, please join us in the GaggiMate Discord channel.

This is a major modification requiring a full rewire.

• Rewiring: You will remove most existing wiring and create a new harness to connect to the GaggiMate PCB.
• Controls: The stock rotary knob will be removed. The machine will be controlled entirely through the GaggiMate interface.
• Power: You will install a new 3-prong plug for the American model.
• ECO Mode: This process disables the stock “ECO Mode” found on EU models. You will replace the existing power switch with a 4-pin on/off switch.

While not a “simple” mod, it is manageable if you are comfortable with basic hand tools and confident following detailed instructions. This guide assumes you have purchased the specific items listed below and is not suitable for a “LEGO” style build.

A Note for the Pros

While this guide provides a tested, reliable path for the ECP, the GaggiMate system is highly adaptable. If you’re an experienced tinkerer, feel free to innovate and be sure to share your ideas with the rest of us!

A Note on the Stilosa and the EC-702

This modification is compatible with the Stilosa and the EC-702. The latter might actually be the best platform for the modification due to its build quality and spacious internal capacity. The only significant difference is the screen housing, which will require a different print. All images and references below feature the ECP, but the process is basically identical for the other models.

Video Guide

Thanks to hard work of Prowler, we now have a wonderful video guide to also accompany this written guide! It covers the entire process from start to finish, and is a great resource to have on hand while working on your machine.

But Why?!

DeLonghi makes several popular, affordable, and surprisingly capable semi-automatic espresso machines. You can often find a well-maintained pre-owned model on Facebook Marketplace or elsewhere for a great price. I paid just $50 for mine. Even in stock form, the ECP and Stilosa can produce excellent espresso. Their stainless-steel grouphead and sturdy internals make them very capable, especially when paired with a bottomless portafilter and a quality grinder.

However, if the idea of installing a Ferrari engine inside a Toyota chassis sounds exciting, this modification is for you. After installing the GaggiMate, these little sleepers can rival the performance and features of $1,000-plus single-boiler espresso machines for a fraction of the cost.

You Can Do This!

Before I started this modification, I had never cut, crimped, or spliced a wire in my life. Despite that, I successfully installed the GaggiMate on my DeLonghi ECP. If I can do it, you can do it too.

Take your time, follow each step carefully, and you will be just fine. Make sure to read through the entire guide at least once before you start working on the machine. This will help you understand the overall process and prepare you for what’s ahead.

Disclaimer

By proceeding with this project, you acknowledge and agree that you perform these modifications at your own risk. The author of this guide assumes no liability for any damage to your equipment, property, or injury to yourself or others. If you are unsure about any step, consult a qualified electrician or professional technician.

Shopping List

Please read this guide in its entirety before purchasing any parts. To ensure compatibility between the GaggiMate and the DeLonghi ECP series, it is critical that you source components that match the specifications provided in the list below.

While the following shopping list includes tools and items designed to streamline the installation, experienced modders should review the requirements to determine which items are strictly necessary for their specific setup. You are welcome to source these parts from any retailer of your choice. The provided links are for reference only, and I do not earn commissions from them.

The most important factor is that the technical specifications of your parts are identical to those listed.

1. GaggiMate Pro PCB
2. A compatible ESP-32-S3 screen ⚠️ Buy only one screen.
   1. 2.1 inch WaveShare ESP32-S3 Round Touch Screen ℹ️ Buy the 2.1 inch screen if you’re modding the ECP. There are no 2.8 inch WaveShare prints. There is a 2.8” LilyGo print.
   2. 🔀 Alternative 2.8 inch WaveShare ESP32-S3 Round Touch Screen ℹ️ Buy the 2.8 inch screen if you’re modding the Stilosa to use Stuart’s print.
3. Solid State Relay DC to AC 40-DA
4. K-Type 6mm 0.5m Ungrounded Thermocouple ℹ️ If you’re in the EU, you can also source your thermocouples from this shop.
5. 22 AWG silicone wires
6. 18 AWG silicone wires
7. 6.3mm and 4.8mm female spade connectors ℹ️ If you buy the crimping tool linked in the Tools & Consumables section, you do not need to buy these connectors separately.
8. Fork connectors, Color: SV1.25-5s-50PCS ℹ️ If you buy the crimping tool linked in the Tools & Consumables section, you do not need to buy these. You may use the included ring connectors for the SSR instead.
9. JST PH 2.0 Connectors ⚠️ Buy only this or the alternative below. You do not need to buy both.
   1. 🔀 Alternative 30cm PH2.0 JST Connector 2P and 30cm PH2.0 JST Connector 3P ℹ️ If you do not want to experience the frustration of crimping tiny JST connectors, buy these. You will splice the unconnected ends of these to their corresponding wires on the screen and SSR. You must buy both. Choose 30cm length for both to give you enough wire.
10. Pressure Transducer, Color: 0-1.6Mpa
11. Silicone gasket, Size: 1/4 inch
12. PTFE Tube, Color: 2 x 4mm White
13. Pressure T-Fitting, Color: PE, Specification: 4mm 5/32 inch
14. 90° Pressure Fitting, Color: 4-02, Specification: PLF
15. 🇪🇺 European Version 21mm x 15mm DPST On/Off Rocker Switch, Color: 4Pin Black — Replace the stock rocker switch with a 21mm x 15mm 4-pin DPST Black On/Off switch. This modification is required to bypass the factory ECO mode and ensure the machine remains powered for consistent thermal stability.
16. 🇺🇸 American Version 3-Prong Power Cord — Upgrades the stock 2-prong cord to a grounded connection. Required given the extent of the modifications.
17. 🇺🇸 American Version 💡 Optional Grounded Outlet Adapter with On/Off Switch — This modification removes the machine’s power knob. Without this, you need to unplug the machine to cut power.
18. 💡 Optional Rancilio-style steam wand — Highly recommended upgrade. The stock Pannarello wand lacks finesse. This one includes a one-hole and three-hole tip.

Tools & Consumables

1. Razor / PTFE cutter — Required for clean, straight cuts on water line tubes without crushing them. Or print your own!
2. Crimping tool — Crimps uninsulated connectors only. If you buy this one, you do not need to buy the separate connectors in the shopping list.
3. Heat-shrink butt connectors
4. WAGO connectors — Much easier than wire nuts or terminal blocks.
5. Tube clips — To secure water lines. You need at least 4. ℹ️ 3D-printable clips are also available, download here.
6. Wire-cutter & wire-stripper
7. Phillips screwdriver
8. Torx screwdriver — Only needed if your bottom panel is attached with Torx screws. Check before buying.
9. Spring Clips — Only needed if your steam hose is clamped with single-use clamps. You need at least 2.
10. Thermal paste — Required for good thermal contact with the thermocouple.
11. Pliers
12. Double-sided tape
13. 💡 Optional Multimeter — Highly recommended for testing connections for continuity.
14. 💡 Optional Mini-micro open barrel crimping tool — Only needed if you are crimping your own JST PH connectors. Not needed if you purchase the pre-crimped JST wires.
15. 💡 Optional Wire management solutions
16. 💡 Optional Labels

Printed Parts

We recommend printing all parts using PETG or ABS for durability and heat resistance. PETG is preferred. It has a higher heat tolerance than ABS, comes in a wider variety of colors, and is easier to print. There’s no reason you can’t glam up your machine with a bright color while you’re at it!

Screen Prints

DeLonghi ECP

• 2.1” Screen
  • TorxFighter designed the front panel replacement shown at the start of this guide. It’s not free, but it completely transforms the look of the machine by replacing the entire front panel and seamlessly integrating the screen. The author of this guide uses this print and recommends it. Find it here.
  • Alternatively, buy the housing for a 2.1” screen or download the model and print it yourself.
• 2.8” Screen
  • Prowler has designed a screen housing for the 2.8” LilyGo (not WaveShare!) screen that mounts on the front panel. Find the model here.

DeLonghi Stilosa

• 2.8” Screen
  • Stuart has designed a screen housing for the 2.8” WaveShare screen that mounts on the front panel. Find the model here.

PCB Prints

Internal Mounting Solutions

• You can buy a pre-printed low-profile cover from the GaggiMate Shop, or download the model and print it yourself.

  ⚠️ Mounting your PCB inside the machine is strongly recommended.

External Mounting Solutions

• TorxFighter, creator of the front panel replacement print, has also released a PCB housing that mounts on the back of the machine and holds both the PCB and SSR.

• ph has designed and shared another version that also fits both the SSR and PCB, mounted on the back of the machine.

• You can buy a pre-printed PCB housing from the GaggiMate Shop, or download the model and print it yourself. Note that this housing only holds the PCB. You’ll need a separate solution for the SSR.

  ⚠️ The guide does not provide instructions for an externally mounted PCB and SSR. If you go this route, you must drill a hole in the back of your machine.

Before You Begin

Now that you have all the equipment you need, before you proceed, please make sure you prepare yourself and your workspace.

Flashing the Hardware

Flash both the PCB and screen before installing them. It’s much easier to do outside the machine. Follow the instructions at docs.gaggimate.eu/docs/flashing.

1. PCB flashed.
2. Screen flashed.

Diagram — Wiring

Please ensure you reference the appropriate wiring diagram below as your primary roadmap for this entire project. It might look intimidating, but take your time; we will break down each connection in the guide. The diagrams are your essential blueprint.

Diagram A — No Power Switch

Wiring diagram without a power switch

e.g. American ECP & Stilosa models.

Diagram B — Power Switch

Wiring diagram with switch

e.g. European ECP & Stilosa models.

Prepare the Machine

1. Remove Grouphead Screws — Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws located near the grouphead and set aside for reassembly.
   
   

   Underside grouphead screws

2. Remove the Front Knob — Gently pull the front knob straight off the shaft. Avoid twisting or prying.
3. Remove Front Panel Screws — Behind the knob, remove the two Phillips screws securing the front panel and set aside for reassembly.
   
   

   Screws behind knob

4. Remove the Front Panel — With all four screws removed, carefully lift off the front metal panel. If it’s snug, use a slim plastic tool such as a bike tire lever or a taped flathead screwdriver to gently unseat it. Take care not to scratch the surface.
5. Remove Case Screws — Locate and remove the two deep-set Phillips screws that hold the outer case in place and set aside for reassembly.
   
   

   Top case screws

6. Release Rear Clips — On the back of the machine, press the two plastic clips inward to release the top cover. Use gentle, even pressure. A flathead screwdriver can help, but avoid excessive force.
   
   

   Rear case clips

7. Remove the Top Cover — Lift the top cover off and set it aside.
8. Remove the Bottom Panel — Flip the machine over and remove the bottom panel by unscrewing the 5 Torx screws. Set the panel and screws aside for reassembly.
   
   

   Bottom panel

9. 🇺🇸 American Version Only Detach the Plug — Locate the wiring junction connecting the 2-prong plug’s Line and Neutral wires to the machine’s internal wiring. Detach all wires, then remove both the plug. It will be replaced with a grounded 3-prong plug.
   
   

   Power plug junction

   Image credit: lchasemarsh
10. Detach the Pump Hoses — Unscrew the 3 Phillips screws securing the pump to the chassis and set aside for reassembly. Detach the tubing and be careful not to lose the filter screens inside the tube ends.
    
    

    Pump hoses

11. Detach the Steam Hose — If clamped with spring-clips, squeeze the clips with a plier and gently pull the hose free from both connection points. If clamped with single-use clamps, carefully break them open with a screwdriver or plier, then pull the hose free.
12. Detach the Frame — Remove the 5 Phillips screws securing the frame to the chassis and set aside for reassembly.
    
    

    Frame screws

13. Remove the Frame — Slowly and carefully lift the frame out, disconnecting any remaining wires to the boiler or pump before fully removing it. Set it aside in an accessible spot; you’ll be doing most of the rewiring on it. ▶️ This video guide is an excellent reference for the disassembly process, specifically showing how to access the internal components and remove the frame for a deep overhaul.
14. 💡 Optional Remove the Pannarello Steam Wand — If you plan to install a Rancilio-style wand (recommended), now is the time. ▶️ This video guide is an excellent walkthrough.
15. Remove Existing Wires — Gently but firmly pull off all wires from the boiler, pump, and any other components on the frame. The only exception is the red boiler wire with the fuse attached. You can leave the end connected to the boiler attached. If any connectors are stubborn, gently wiggle it back and forth while pulling.
16. Save the Red Boiler Wire with the Fuse Attached — This is the only wire you will keep.
17. Remove the Old Thermostats — Unscrew the nut between the two thermostats and save it for later. Remove the bracket and both thermostats from the boiler. They will not be needed after the GaggiMate installation.
    
    

    Stock thermostats

18. Clean the Boiler Surface and Frame — Wipe away any old thermal paste from the boiler surface with a damp paper towel. Make sure the area is clean and smooth. Take this opportunity to clean the frame as well if needed.

Pre-Wire Planning & Layout

Plan your component layout before cutting any wires. Always measure twice and leave extra lead length to ensure the PCB and SSR can be mounted and connected without straining the terminals.

The PCB will be mounted on the wall behind the pump.

Recommended PCB mounting location.

The SSR will be mounted at the base of the machine, near the plug.

Recommended SSR mounting location.

You can mount your WAGOs in a location that makes sense to you.

An optional location to mount your WAGOs. WAGOs are small and you have more flexibility with their location.

Wire the Pump

The pump is not polarized. It does not matter which wire connects to which terminal. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Connect the Blue Pump Wire

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the plug junction at the bottom of the machine, down through the large hole below the pump.
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Strip at least 5 mm from one end, then crimp a 6.3mm female spade connector onto it. Attach this end to either male spade connector on the pump.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.

Connect the Green Pump Wire

1. Cut a green 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the pump port on the PCB
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Strip at least 5 mm from one end, then crimp a 6.3mm female spade connector onto it. Attach this end to the unconnected male spade on the pump.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.

Prepare the Water Line

Cut pump-to-boiler hose

Re-seat the Frame

1. Reinsert the Frame — Now that the pump is wired and the steam wand replaced, re-seat the frame. Take care not to snag any wires or pinch any tubing. Make sure they are out of the way before lowering the frame into place. Once the frame is securely in position, reinsert and tighten the 5 Phillips screws you previously removed.
2. Secure the Blue Pump Wire** — The unconnected end of the blue pump wire down will be connected to a 5-slot WAGO connector later. Secure it with tape against the outside of the machine for now.
3. Secure the Green Pump Wire — The unconnected end of the green pump wire will be connected to the PCB later. Secure it with tape against the outside of the machine for now.
4. Connect the Boiler to the T-Fitting — Push the cut end of the boiler water line into the t-fitting . Press firmly until it is seated snugly, then give it a light tug to confirm.
5. Connect the Pump to the T-Fitting — Push the cut end of the pump water line into the t-fitting . Press firmly until it is seated snugly, then give it a light tug to confirm.
6. Prepare the Pressure Transducer (PT) Tube — Cut at least a 75mm length of 2mm x 4mm PTFE tubing . Cuts must be clean and straight.
7. Install the Gasket and Transducer — Drop the silicone gasket into the threaded opening of the 90° fitting .
8. Connect the 90° Fitting and the Pressure Transducer — Screw on the pressure transducer onto the threaded end of the 90° fitting . ⚠️ Hand-tighten only. Do not overtighten.
9. Connect the PT Tube — Attach one end to the 90° fitting using the same push-fit method.
10. Fill the PT Tube — To eliminate air in the tubing connected to the pressure transducer, fill it with water using a syringe or by submerging the open end in a bowl of water. Attach the other end of the tube to the open branch of the t-fitting and confirm both connections are snug.
11. Secure the Pressure Transducer — Tuck the pressure transducer into the open space to the left of the pump or wherever it fits snugly.
    
    

    Pressure transducer position

12. Secure the Pressure Transducer Wire — The thick black wire from the pressure transducer will be connected to the PCB later. Secure it with tape against the outside of the machine for now.
    
    

    Pressure transducer installation

    A correct installation of the Pressure Transducer and fittings will look similar to the image above.

Wire the Boiler

The boiler is not polarized. Note how the fuse is secured to the boiler via the metal clip. When you reconnect the fused wire, secure it the same way to ensure it stays in place and maintains good contact with the boiler surface. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Boiler heater connections

Connect the Red Fused Boiler Wire

1. Take the red fused wire with the fuse you saved earlier. If it’s not long enough to reach your SSR splice an additional length of red 18 AWG wire using a heat-shrink butt connector.
2. Attach the end with the existing plastic cap to either pin on the boiler and secure the fuse under the metal clip.
3. Route the unconnected end of the red fused boiler down through the large hole below the pump. It will be connected to the SSR later. Secure it with tape against the outside of the machine for now.

Connect the Blue Boiler Wire

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the 5-slot WAG from the boiler.
2. Slide an insulation sleeve onto the wire, strip at least 5mm from one end, and crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto it.
3. Attach this end to the unconnected pin on the boiler.
4. Slide the insulation over this connection.
5. Secure the unconnected end of this blue boiler wire. It will be connected to the 5-slot WAGO later. Secure it with tape against the outside of the machine for now.

Wire the Screen

This section explains how to prepare a WaveShare screen for connection to the PCB. If you purchased a LilyGo screen, the process will be similar, but wiring may differ. Refer to the documentation that came with your screen for specifics. ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

Prepare the 2-Pin Female PH 2.0 Connector

1. The wire ends come pre-stripped, but you’ll need more exposed wire for a strong splice. Strip at least 10 mm from the end of each wire.

2-pin JST connector

Prepare the 4-Pin Female SH 1.0 Connector

4-pin SH 1.0 wiring

1. Using a narrow-tip tweezer, lift the retention tabs (depicted above) on the yellow wire and pull it out. Repeat for the green wire.
2. Cut the black rectangular connectors off the red and black wires.
3. Strip at least 10 mm from each wire’s exposed end.

Prepare the 22 AWG Wires

1. Cut one red 22 AWG and one black 22 AWG wire long enough to reach the 2-pin screen port on the PCB . Both wires should be identical in length.
2. Strip at least 10 mm from both ends of each wire.

Prepare the Screen Connection

1. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the red 22 AWG wire.
2. Bring its stripped end to the stripped end of the SH 1.0 connector’s red wire and twist them firmly together. ▶️ This short video is an excellent reference.
3. Slide the heat-shrink butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section is centered over the twisted wires before heating.
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink both insulated ends of the connector.
5. Heat the middle solder section until it melts and the insulation shrinks tight.
6. Repeat the steps above for the black 22 AWG wire and the SH 1.0 connector’s black wire.

Prepare the PCB Connection

1. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the other end of the red 22 AWG wire.
2. Bring its stripped end to the stripped end of the PH 2.0 connector’s red wire and twist them firmly together.
3. Slide the butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section is centered over the twisted wires before heating.
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, shrink both insulated ends of the connector.
5. Heat the middle solder section until it melts and the insulation shrinks tight.
6. Repeat the steps above for the black 22 AWG wire and the PH 2.0 connector’s black wire.
7. Secure the PH 2.0 connector end of the wires with tape against the outside of the machine for now. It will be connected to the PCB later.

Attach the Thermocouple

1. Apply Thermal Paste — Squeeze a small amount of thermal paste around the base of the threaded stud exposed after removing the thermostat bracket.
2. Install the Thermocouple — Place the hole connector of your thermocouple over the threaded stud and slide it down until it rests flat against the boiler and is seated in the thermal paste.
3. Secure the Thermocouple — Screw the saved nut back on to hold the thermocouple in place. ⚠️ The thermocouple’s sensor tip is fragile. Do not bend it acutely or twist it at any point during installation.
4. Secure the Thermocouple Wire — Secure the wire end of the thermocouple with tape against the outside of the machine for now. It will connect to the PCB later.

Successful installation of the thermocouple

Wire the Solid State Relay (SSR)

1. Remove the SSR Screws — Unscrew all four Phillips screws from the SSR and save them along with the small metal screw plates. You will reuse them shortly.
2. Cut an SSR Output-to-Plug Wire — Cut one red 18 AWG wire that can comfortably reach the 3-prong plug from the SSR. Measure carefully before cutting.

Attach the SSR Output-to-Plug Wire

1. Strip at least 5 mm from one end of the red wire.
2. On this end, crimp a ring connector.
3. Attach the wire to either terminal on the OUTPUT side of the SSR.
4. Place the wire’s ring connector under a screw plate and reinstall the Phillips screw.
5. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the other end of this wire.
6. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in a 3-slot WAGO connector.
7. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Prepare the 3-Pin Female PH 2.0 Connector

3-pin JST connector

1. Using a narrow-tip tweezer, gently lift the retention tabs (depicted above) on the 3-pin connector and remove all three wires.
2. Insert the red wire into the middle slot and the black into the right slot.
3. Gently tug both to confirm they are securely seated. ⚠️ Correct placement in the connector is critical for proper SSR control and PCB operation.

3-pin JST connector wiring

Prepare the Control Wire Ends on the SSR Side

1. Crimp a ring connector onto the 3-pin connector’s red wire.
2. Crimp a ring connector onto the 3-pin connector’s black wire.

Attach the Control Wires to the SSR

1. Attach both wires to the terminals on the CONTROL side of the SSR. This side is polarized. Connect exactly as shown, with the black wire’s ring connector attached to the - side of the SSR Control terminal, and the red wire’s ring connector attached to the + side.

Wiring the CONTROL side of the SSR

Diagram — PCB Wiring Pinout

Refer to the wiring pinout diagram below as we begin connecting the remaining wires to the PCB. Following the pinout carefully is crucial to ensure proper functionality and avoid damage to components.

Diagram of the PCB and connections

Connect the Components

Connect the Boiler to the SSR — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the other end of the red fused wire that is connected to the boiler.
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this end of the wire.
3. Crimp an M5 ring connector onto the stripped end.
4. Attach this wire to the free terminal on the OUTPUT side of the SSR.
5. Place this wire’s ring connector under a screw plate and reinstall the Phillips screw.

Connect the Screen to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the 2-pin PH 2.0 connector into the correct slot on the PCB . It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.
2. Insert the 4-pin SH 1.0 connector into the 4-pin slot on your WaveShare screen. It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.
   
   

   Back of the WaveShare screen

Connect the Solid State Relay (SSR) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the 3-pin connector from the SSR into the correct slot on the PCB . It can only fit one way. Do not force it, but make sure it is firmly seated.
2. Ensure that the wire positions match the PCB Pinout diagram exactly.

Connect the Pressure Transducer (PT) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Insert the red pressure transducer wire into the +5V slot.
2. Insert the green pressure transducer wire into the Analog In slot.
3. Insert the black pressure transducer wire into the Ground slot. ℹ️ If you have an older board with 3-slots for the PT, the black wire goes into the empty slot.
4. Give the wires a gentle pull to verify that all are secured within their respective slots.

Connect the Thermocouple (TC) to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. If your thermocouple has fork connectors, gently pull them off, then strip at least 20 mm of insulation.
2. Fold the exposed wire back on itself before gently twisting them. This makes them thick enough for the two ports to hold securely.
3. Insert the red thermocouple wire into the T+ slot .
4. Insert the blue thermocouple wire into the T- slot .
5. Give the wires a gentle pull to verify that they are secure within their respective slots.

Connect the Green Pump Wire to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the uncrimped end of the green wire connected to the pump.
2. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into the pump slot on the PCB .
3. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Blue Neutral Wire to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the uncrimped end of the blue neutral wire.
2. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into the neutral slot on the PCB .
3. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Red Line Wire to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram and Refer to the PCB Pinout

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire that can comfortably reach to the PCB from the 3-slot WAGO connector.
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one end of a red 18 AWG.
3. Twist the exposed wire to prevent fraying, then insert it into the line slot on the PCB .
4. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the other end of this wire.
5. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot on the same 3-slot WAGO connector.
6. Give the PCB wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
7. Give the WAGO wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Mount the PCB behind the Overpressure Valve — ↗️ Refer to the Layout Section

1. Secure the PCB inside the printed housing for the PCB.
2. Apply double-sided tape to the back of the printed housing.
3. Mount the PCB to the inner-wall behind the overpressure valve.

Wiring the Grounded Power Cord

Even though the American version is not grounded by default, the grounding-point is there for you to use. While the DeLonghi America engineers chose not to ground the boiler, they also didn’t expect dramatic modification of their machine. The GaggiMate team strongly recommends that you ground your boiler.

On the 3-prong power cord linked in the shopping list, identify the following wires:

• Line is black . For the EU machine, it is brown .
• Neutral is white . For the EU machine, it is black .
• Ground is teal . For the EU machine, it is green and yellow .

Connect the SSR to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Locate the black line wire on the 3-prong plug .
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the black line wire.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into the last free slot in the 3-slot WAGO connector.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.

Connect the Pump to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Locate the white neutral wire on the 3-prong plug .
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the white neutral.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert it into a free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within the slot.
5. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you routed to the plug from the pump, through the large hole.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of this blue wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
8. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
9. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you attached to the boiler and then routed to the plug, from the large hole.
10. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of this wire.
11. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector.
12. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Connect the Pump to the PCB — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire that can comfortably reach to the PCB from the 5-slot WAGO connector.
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one unconnected end of this wire.
3. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into another free slot in the 5-slot WAGO connector. At this point, you will have 4 wires connected and 1 remaining empty slot. This is correct.
4. Give the wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.
5. Locate the blue 18 AWG wire that you routed to the PCB from the 5-slot WAGO connector.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from one unconnected end of this wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into the pump slot of the PCB.
8. Give the PCB wire a gentle pull to verify that it is secured within its slot.

Connect the Ground Wire to the Plug — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a green 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the boiler’s grounding point from the plug, up through the large hole below the pump.
   
   

   The boiler's grounding point

   Location of the boiler's grounding point.
2. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the eImage depicting nd of the ground wire that will be connected to the ground wire on the 3-prong plug .
3. Slide a heat-shrink butt connector onto the wire.
4. Bring the stripped end of the ground wire to the already stripped teal ground wire on the 3-prong plug .
5. Twist the wires together to ensure a firm connection.
6. Slide the heat-shrink butt connector over the twisted wires. ⚠️ Ensure the solder section of the butt connector is positioned directly over the twisted wires.
7. Use a heat source (e.g., a heat gun or lighter) to shrink the left and right insulated ends of the heat-shrink butt connector.
8. Then heat the middle solder section to melt it. This creates a tight, secure splice.

Connect the Boiler Side of the Ground Wire — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the other end of the ground wire that will connect to the boiler’s grounding point .
2. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
3. Crimp an M5 ring connector onto the stripped end.
4. Attach this connector to the grounding point on the boiler using an M4 screw . Ensure it is securely fastened.

🇪🇺 European Version Only Disabling ECO Mode

Disconnect and Remove the Stock Power Switch ▶️ This video guide is an excellent reference.

1. Locate the stock power switch on your European-model machine and disconnect the two wires attached to it.
2. After disconnecting, push the power switch out and remove it from the machine.

Replace the Power Switch

1. Push in the power switch you purchased from the shopping list above into the empty hole. This hole will accept a 21mm x 15mm rectangular switch.

Connect the Plug to the Power Switch — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire long enough to reach a pin on the power switch from the line wire on the plug.
2. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to the power switch.
3. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
4. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
5. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch.
6. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach a pin on the power switch from the line wire on the plug.
7. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to the power switch.
8. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
9. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
10. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch.

Connect the Power Switch to Line — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a red 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the 3-slot WAGO connector.
2. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to a pin on the power switch.
3. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
4. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
5. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch. It must be attached to the same pin that is inline with plug’s Line wire.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of the wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in a 3-slot WAGO connector.

Connect the Power Switch to Neutral — ↗️ Refer to the Wiring Diagram

1. Cut a blue 18 AWG wire long enough to reach the 5-slot WAGO connector.
2. Strip at least 5 mm of insulation from the end of the wire that will be connected to a pin on the power switch.
3. Before crimping, slide an insulation sleeve onto this wire.
4. Crimp a 4.8mm female spade connector onto this end of the wire.
5. Attach the connector onto a pin on the power switch. It must be attached to the same pin that is inline with plug’s Neutral wire.
6. Strip at least 10 mm of insulation from the unconnected end of the wire.
7. Twist the exposed wire gently to prevent fraying, then insert this end into a free slot in a 3-slot WAGO connector.

How to wire the 4-pin switch correctly.

Mount the SSR in the Base — ↗️ Refer to the Layout Section

1. Apply double-sided tape to the back of the SSR
2. Affix the SSR to the floor of the base panel next to the plug

Power-On Test and First Boot

With everything connected, plug in your machine and turn it on. If everything is wired correctly, you should observe the following:

1. The LED light on the PCB will glow red.
2. Your screen powers on and begins its first boot sequence. The first boot will take longer than normal. Don’t panic.

If any of these three things do not occur, there is likely a wiring issue. Unplug your machine, review the guide carefully, and retrace your connections to locate and correct the error.

Assuming all three systems power on correctly, visit the GaggiMate website and follow the instructions in the First Start documentation. While there, also review the Configuration and Touch Screen Usage documents to familiarize yourself with the GaggiMate software. Lastly, if you experience any issues, please check the Troubleshooting section.

Final Setup and Testing

• Use GaggiMate’s software Auto-Tune feature in the PID Autotune page to generate PID values specific to your machine. This ensures the software can control temperature effectively and accurately.
• Before reassembling your machine completely, consider pulling a test shot using the GaggiMate interface. Confirm that there are no leaks.
• If everything looks good, if you have no leaks, then you’re ready to reassemble your machine.
• Before final reassembly, unplug your machine and take some time to organize your internal wiring using your solution of choice. Verify that no wires are resting directly on the boiler surface where heat could cause damage to them over time. The only wire that may rest on the boiler surface is the fuse-protected wire.

Troubleshooting

The list below contains common issues you might encounter. If your problem is not listed here, please join us in Discord. We’d be happy to try to help you.

I have leaks!

To ensure a leak-free installation, carefully inspect your water line connections.

• Check Cuts: Ensure all cuts to the tubing are sharp, straight, and clean.
• Check Tension: Short tube lengths can create tension that may cause leaks. It is better to have longer tubes that can sit without tension than to have tubes that are too short and pulling on the fittings.
• Seating: Verify each hose is seated firmly into its respective fitting.
• O-Rings: Confirm that hoses leading to the boiler and overpressure valve are clipped in securely and that the black o-ring is present and correctly seated.

After starting my machine, I keep seeing a “Temperature error, please restart” message. What should I do?

1. Test the Thermocouple: Use a multimeter in continuity mode. Touch one probe to the thermocouple end and the other to a terminal wire. If it beeps, it is grounded. You will need to replace it with an ungrounded version.
2. Check the Outlet: If the thermocouple is ungrounded, try a different wall outlet. The PID controller is sensitive to electrical noise from weak or “noisy” sources like extension cords with USB ports.

I moved it to a different outlet, but I still have the same error. What should I do?

Your thermocouple wires may not be making a tight connection.

• Fold the Wires: If using naked wires, fold them over and twist them to give the slot clamps more surface area to bite onto.
• EMI Reduction: Consider wrapping the terminal wires in ferrite beads or adding an EMI filter to the power line.

What is that weird repeating “sucking” sound in steam mode?

That is the Steam Assist feature. It uses the water pump to inject precise pulses of water into the boiler while steaming to maintain high pressure and consistent heat. If you prefer to disable this, change the Steam Assist value to 0 in your settings.

Yuck! My coffee tastes underextracted or sour. What’s wrong?

Most machines have a temperature gap between the thermocouple and the grouphead.

• Adjustment: Increase the “Temperature Offset” in your settings to raise the target temperature.
• Expected Range: It is normal to see an offset of 10–20°C on machines like the DeLonghi ECP.

I am not hitting the pressures I expect.

Unlike electronically-controlled 3-way valves of more expensive machines, the mushroom valve in DeLonghi machines requires at least 4-bars of pressure to open. If your pump pressure is too low, the valve won’t open fully, leading to underextraction. Increase the pressure values in all phases of your preferred profile(s). The best way to determine the exact pressure values for your machine is by using the calibration profile created by cerealkiller, shown below. Copy and paste it into an empty notepad text file, save it as pressure-test.json, and then import it into GaggiMate’s Profile page. Run the profile without a portafilter and observe the brew group. When you begin to see steady water flow out of the brew group, that is the minimum pressure your pump needs to reach to open your valve. You can then set your profile pressures accordingly, ensuring they are above this threshold for optimal extraction.

{
  "label": "[Utility] Pressure Test",
  "type": "pro",
  "description": "",
  "temperature": 10,
  "utility": true,
  "phases": [
    {
      "name": "2.0",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 2, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "2.5",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 2.5, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "3.0",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 3, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "3.5",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 3.5, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "4.0",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 4, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "4.5",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 4.5, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "5.0",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 5, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "5.5",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 5.5, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "6.0",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 6.0, "flow": 0 }
    },
    {
      "name": "6.5",
      "phase": "brew",
      "valve": 1,
      "duration": 15,
      "temperature": 0,
      "transition": { "type": "instant", "duration": 0, "adaptive": true },
      "pump": { "target": "pressure", "pressure": 6.5, "flow": 0 }
    }
  ]
}

What PID values do you recommend?

While there is currently no “consensus best” setting for the DeLonghi, mdwasp recommends starting with a Kp of 32, a Ki of 0.05, a Kd of 42 (i.e. 32,0.05,42), and a Thermal Feedforward Gain (Kff) of 0.6. We strongly recommend using AI to assist you with dialing in a precise PID configuration for your machine. Please visit this Discord channel for detailed instructions on how to leverage AI for precision PID tuning.

What Temperature Offset should I use?

A temperature offset of 15° is a common starting point, but every machine behaves differently and you should measure your actual brew temperature. If you lack a Scace device or a method to measure portafilter temperatures directly, you can use the “flash steaming method” to calibrate your offset. For detailed instructions on this process, please refer to this Discord channel.

Lance Hedrick called this a “meme-machine”. What else can I do?

Yes, he most certainly ▶️ did! If you want to go “buckwild,” the community has experimented with:

• Trimming mushroom valve springs for lower brewing pressure.
• Swapping vibratory pumps for quiet rotary pumps.
• Installing boiler diversion plates for better thermal stability.
• Drilling the boiler casing for submersible, probe-type thermocouples.

If you need further assistance, please refer to the GaggiMate Troubleshooting Documentation. While the guidance provided here addresses specific concerns relevant to this model, the full documentation covers a broader range of potential issues you may encounter during operation or maintenance.

Congratulations!

Welcome to the world of turbocharged espresso! Now you can extract better than café-quality shots from a compact, affordable machine that rivals the big names at a fraction of the cost.

Acknowledgements

• Flavius for successfully being the first known person to install GaggiMate on a DeLonghi ECP, answering a ton of questions, and helping identify the required components.
• mdwasp for providing a lot of information and for being the creator of the GaggiMate project.
• TorxFighter for doing a lot of tinkering and sharing awesome 3D-prints specific to our beloved little DeLonghis.
• Abunchahicks for wiring assistance and general knowledge and helpfulness.
• Stuart for technical support and prints.
• Prowler for a 2.8” screen print.
• odor4fun for sharing his knowledge about the mushroom valve and how to optimize pressure values for better extraction.
• cerealkillers for the pressure test utility profile.
• The GaggiMate team for their incredible work and contributions.