Gaggia Classic Pro/Evo (2019 - now)

Contents

• 1. Preparation
• 2. Machine preparation
• 3. Heater modifications
• 4. HV Wiring
• 5. Plumbing / Pressure installation
• 6. LV Wiring
• 7. Final checks

1. Preparation

Safety First! Unplug your machine to ensure there’s no live connections while working on it. Work in a dry environment to prevent electrical hazards. Start by gathering all the materials and tools listed in the sourcing pages. Follow these guides if you haven’t already: Printed Parts and Flashing. Read through the entire guide first to make sure any questions will be cleared before the installation. You can always contact us for help or open a help thread on our Discord. Check the Pinout and prepare the wires if you didn’t buy the kit.

Check all the parts

Check that you have all the parts ready to go. You can see what parts and tools you might need in the pictures below.

Depending on the kit generation the plumbing parts (fittings and hose in the left two pictures) will be replaced by the ones in the right two pictures. We have split up chapter 6 in 2 parts for either the new or the old kind of plumbing. You will only have to do one of the two.

Prepare the wire labels

We’ve prepared a printable guide to label your wires in order to easier follow the install and fix mistakes. You can also just use tape, sticky labels or whatever else you have.

Download the wire labels

Wiring Diagrams

You can check the wiring diagram for additional information.

Check the screen

Before you assemble the screen, check that the ribbon is seated and locked correctly like in this picture. If it isn’t for any reason, unlock the connector by pulling down the black locking tab horizontally to the board, insert the cable and close it back up. Check for an image by plugging it into a USB connection before you continue.

Assemble the printed parts

Remove the backing from the adhesive strips on the PCB part and try to stick the screen as straight and centered as possible. Place it in the base and close it gently with the cover. Be careful as the screen may fall apart easily if force is applied. There is no need to remove the plastic piece between in-between the screen and the board. Place the PCB in the pcb cover at an angle to guide the USB-C port in the cutout. Afterwards push it down to lock it in the base. Make sure you’ve already flashed it before as you might need to access the boot button to do so.

2. Machine preparation

Disassemble the machine

Remove all parts from the machine that could bother you during the installation or fall out like the water lid, drip tray and portafilter. Undo the two screws marked above in the picture. Then, remove the cupwarmer and disconnect the two grounding wires. Remember to connect these again during re-assembly!

You see an overview of what you should expect above. Make yourself familiar with the layout of the machine. You can use above pictures for reference if you need to check anything. The machine in the pictures is a Gaggia Classic Pro E24 with the Eco PCB. This machine uses monoblock connectors, the wiring is identical to other models though.

Labeling

To make labeling a bit easier, especially with the monoblock style connectors you can tilt out the front switches a bit to free those. If you do not have monoblock connectors tilting the switches might still help with labeling.

Label the connections - Use the labels that you printed or tape to label all the connections, we will refer to those by their number/name in the following steps. The brew thermostat (BT) sits on the left side of your boiler, the steam thermostat (ST) is the one screwed into the top of the boiler.

The picture above will show you where these labels should be placed for the button cables. The connections marked with an asterisk are only present on a 240 V machine.

3. Heater modifications

Brew thermostat

ℹ️ To make uninstallation of the brew thermostat as well of installation of the thermocouple easier, it’s required to loosen the steam valve assembly and unscrew the group head from the case so you’re able to tilt the boiler assembly. You remove the steam knob and steam wand to gain even more space. After you’re done with the install, re-assemble them before testing the machine. Uninstall the Brew thermostat - By tilting the boiler you can easily access the brew thermostat, and unscrew it. Red Jumper - Bridge the connections BT.A and BT.B with the small red jumper. ⚠️ Please make sure you have a secure connection and properly insulate the connection with electrical tape or heatshrink. Install the thermocouple - Now that the brew thermostat is removed from the boiler you can screw in the M4 thermocouple into the boiler. ⚠️ Be careful to rotate the wire (folding the wire cautiously helps) as you screw it in and only fasten it hand tight. The thermocouple can easily break off during the screwing process if not handled with care. It is advised to connect the thermocouple at the end of the installation to the PCB. The red cable is the + connection and the blue is -. See the Pinout for where these are located.

Steam thermostat

Remove ST connections - Remove the connections labeled ST.A and ST.B from the steam thermostat and extend them with the two yellow AWG18 wires. ⚠️ Please make sure you have a secure connection and properly insulate the connection with electrical tape or heatshrink. ℹ️ You can choose to either remove the steam thermostat or leave it in place. Both ways are just fine. Mount the SSR - Mount the SSR now or at the end of the installation on the back slots of the machine with either M4 screws and bolts or zip ties. Connect the SSR cables - Connect the two yellow cables to Output side of the SSR (labeled OUTPUT, polarity does not matter) as well as the Yellow/Black Signal cable to the Input side. (Yellow = +, Black = -) ⚠️ Be careful not to mix up the cables and sides

4. HV Wiring

Steam Switch

The picture above shows how the steam switch is wired by default. On a machine without the Eco PCB, the green wire labeled S.1 would be missing. ⚠️ On a US machine the double white will be on the other side. Follow the labeling and modifications of the switch positions regardless of that!

Wire up S.5 to Neutral - Remove the S.5 (white) from the left side of the steam switch (or the monoblock connector, you can push the connectors out with a screwdriver). Use the blue cable from the wiring kit to extend is to the N/Neutral connector of the PCB. 🇪🇺 240V Version Only Remove S.1 from the switch and insulate it with tape. It is no longer used Move S.4 (black) to the S.1 position. This step has to be done on both 120V and 240V machines. ⚠️ At this point the wiring of the switch should look like in the above picture for both 120V and 240V machines. Use tape or heatshrink to make sure the connections or removed connectors are properly insulated.

Brew switch

The picture above shows how the brew switch is wired by default. On a machine without the Eco PCB, the wires labeled C.1 and C.2 would be missing.

🇪🇺 240V Version Only Deactivate the Eco PCB - Remove the cables at C.1 and C.2 from the switch and bridge them with the short yellow jumper. ⚠️ Please make sure you have a secure connection and properly insulate the connection with electrical tape or heatshrink. Wire up C.4 to Line - Remove C.4 (brown) from the brew switch and extend it with the grey cable from the wiring kit to the L/Line connector of the PCB. ⚠️ Properly insulate the connection and the left over end of the grey cable with electrical tape or heatshrink.

When you’re done, the brew switch (or monoblock connector) should look like this.

Pump/Three way valve

ℹ️ If you’re installing the pro kit you can do these steps together with # 6.1 where you remove the pump. It makes accessing the wires easier. Remove the connector PMP.B (grey cable, the one that does not go into the thermal fuse on the pump) from the pump and extend it with the red wire from the wiring kit to the V/Valve connector of the PCB. Connect the green wire from the wiring kit to the pump where PMP.B was previously connected and run it to the P/Pump connector of the PCB.

5. Plumbing / Pressure installation

Follow this part only if you’re installing GaggiMate Pro.

Pump removal

Free up a bit of space around the pump so you can remove the connectors from it. Remove the hose connecting it to the tank and the little spout on the bottom of the pump by pulling the spout downwards. The spout prevents it from being lifted out of the mount. Partially lift out the pump - Pull the pump upwards and remove the lower rubber bracket from it (It is simply pushed onto the pump) Remove the thermal fuse - While holding the pump at an angle you can now remove the thermal fuse. It is a small disk shaped component that is pushed into a pocket next to the connectors. ( In some machines this will be fixed with hot glue which can be peeled off.) Unscrew the OPV - Now that the pump can freely move, rotate the pump to unscrew it from the black OPV on top.

Prepare the new fittings

Gather the shown parts from the plumbing kit ⚠️ If your plumbing kit didn’t contain PTFE tape, skip this step as your elbow fitting has an o-ring! Wrap 4-5 layers of PTFE tape around the male part of the L-shaped fitting. You want to do this clock-wise so it doesn’t undo itself when screwing on the pump later. ℹ️ If you still encounter leaks after installation, add additional layers of PTFE tape. Make sure to get none of the tape inside the water paths as it can block the 3WV and require you to clean it. Connect the two parts as shown above. The T-fitting comes with a gasket so PTFE tape is never needed on that connection.

Reassembly

Screw the combined piece onto the OPV as shown in the first picture above. It should sit at a similar angle as shown to make routing the tubes easier. Then screw the pump onto the new fitting by rotating it as you did before. When you feel the connection is tight and the pump sits in a way where you can reach the connectors, push it back into the lower rubber mount. If you have a thermal fuse, insert that back into the holder on the pump. Plug back in the wires that you previously removed. Put the tube back onto the spout and plug the spout back onto the pump.

Connecting the transducer

Push in the PTFE tube into the T-fitting. Screw the female push fitting onto the pressure transducer. This only need to be hand tight! Measure out a length of tube so that the transducer can lie horizontally on the bottom of the machine and cut it with the provided PTFE-cutter. ℹ️ The tube needs to be filled with water, you can either do that manually in this state or bleed it by unscrewing the transducer fitting slightly and using the pump when the machine is on. Make sure to put a towel around it so water doesn’t spray everywhere. Plug the PTFE tube into the transducer fitting and place it at the bottom of the machine. Connect the transducer to your PCB. ⚠️ Pay attention to your PCB version as they have different pinouts. See Pinout for help.

6. LV Wiring

Button functionality

You can choose to retain the functionality of the buttons by using the green/black 4-wire cable from the wiring kit.

Connect one green and black wire (check the pinout for steam/brew) to the free sides of both brew and steam switch (Positions C.1, C.2, S.4, S.5). ⚠️ Make sure never to mix up high and low voltage on the same side of the switch!
ℹ️ If you have the monoblock, you should put those back first and then push the connectors in there.

PCB

Connect the JST PH connectors (small white plugs) to the PCB. There will be some free connections left after you plug everything in, those are for future expansion. Place it in the corner of the machine. You can also use velcro tape or similar to attach it to the casing.

Screen

Run the red/black cable from the PCB to the screen and connect it to the 4 pin connector.

The cable has enough space to be routed between the cup warmer and casing. The screen casing simply sits on the edge of the housing. Some machines have a slightly thicker paint so if you have trouble getting the casing on, you can use a nail file or sand paper in the groove.

7. Final checks

Review all your labeled connections for accuracy and completeness. ⚠️ Ensure that there are no exposed wires and that all connections are secure and insulated. Test your wiring for possible shorts with a multimeter and make sure you haven’t connected any LV connections with HV connections. Also test the switches operation for continuity in the different switch positions.

Testing

Now is the big moment. Turn on your machine for the first time. The heater should not be heating on power-on and nothing else should be running. You can check if the heater is doing anything by observing the LED on the SSR. The screen should turn on and show the Standby screen of GaggiMate. Touch the screen once to switch to warmup mode, you should see the current room temperature being displayed and the LED on the SSR will light up indicating it’s heating up.

Pressure test

Before you close up the machine you’ll want to run a pressure test of the system to catch any leaks. For this you can simply run the water mode for a while and see if anything needs fixing.

Final Steps

Reassemble the Machine: Carefully put the panels back on, ensuring that there are no pinched wires.

If you have any further questions or need additional clarifications, feel free to go into the Discord and make a help thread or post on our Subreddit.

Congratulations

You have now finished setting up your Gaggia Classic Pro with GaggiMate and can start making coffee. To check more tasks on your first startup go to First Start. When you do the first test shots and check the system, remember that you’ll need to have a puck or blind filter in the machine to build any pressure. If you encounter any problems during the installation check our Troubleshooting guide or open a help thread in #gaggimate-help on Discord.